Incontro allo IUAV di Treviso

Iuav Zoe_Romano

Amanda Montanari, ricercatrice allo IUAV mi ha invitato per un contributo durante la serie di incontri organizzati all’interno del percorso didattico “Refraiming Sustainability. A geography of lo-fi practice“:

Il workshop Refraiming Sustainability prevede una struttura portante caratterizzata dalla riedizione della Lo-fi Theory osservata nell’ottica della ricerca di sostenibilità nell’ambito della produzione e del consumo della moda. Lo strumento della mappatura, sia in termini tecnici che filosofici, ci porterà ad individuare sul territorio veneziano quelle pratiche di uso dell’abito e degli oggetti quotidiani che sono connesse all’emergente visione della sostenibilità.
Questa visione si servirà di due preziosi interventi differenti. Zoe Romano, del team di Arduino, verrà a parlarci di Brand open source e di digital fabrication; Kate Fletcher (London College of Fashion) ci presenterà il progetto Local Wisdom.
La forma che daremo all’intera mappatura sarà frutto di una continua negoziazione tra i partecipanti.

con la partecipazione di
Zoe Romano e Kate Fletcher

UPDATE: Il percorso è culminato con una mostra fotografica presso la Sede di Unindustria Treviso.

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3d printing and wood at Paris fashion week

3dprinted dress

An experimental new material was put to use in the creation of a flexible, soft dress of stunning complexity, produce with Laser Sintering technique.

Austrian architect Julia Koerner explains, “My collaboration with Materialise for the 3D printed dress for Iris van Herpen’s Haute Couture Show ‘Voltage’ 2013 reveals a highly complex, parametrically generated, geometrical structure. The architectural structure aims to superimpose multiple layers of thin woven lines which animate the body in an organic way. Exploiting computational boundaries in combination with emergent technology selective laser sintering, of a new flexible material, lead to enticing and enigmatic effects within fashion design. New possibilities arise such as eliminating seams and cuts where they are usually placed in couture.”

Learn more here

Using a different technique and approach, Sruli Recht items are made of layers of walnut wood divided into triangles and then mounted on a textile base forming the geometric shapes of the garments.

Take a look at the video below (and spot the quadcopter!):

Open source branding lecture at Parsons

Zoe Romano -  Parsons

Last month I was in New York invited by Otto von Busch at The School of Design Strategies for a lecture and a workshop about the concept of open source  in fashion and how I experienced it through the projects I co-funded starting from 2005 ( Serpica Naro and Openwear).

The SDS is “an experimental educational environment configured to advance innovative approaches to design and business education in the evolving context of cities, services, and ecosystems”.

Below you can find the slides of the lecture and here some pictures of the workshop!

It was a great experience working together with Otto but also Pascale Gatzen and finally meeting with Giana, from Hacking Couture.

From the idea to the prototype with the help of open design

At the end of July I spent a week at Supsi with Massimo Banzi and around 20 participants at the Physical & Wearable computing with Arduino summer school.

The focus of the course was on the design and prototyping of digitally fabricated interactive objects. It was the first time I was working with Massimo and some weeks before I shared with him the approach I had in mind.

Usually, wearable technology workshops start from ready-made garments or accessories. Old gloves and t-shirts, cheap belts or jackets are “decorated” with technology.
I wanted to experiment a different point of view.
I would have brought some rough prototypes of wearable accessories made of felt and produced with a lasercut.

I prepared the files during the previous months with the help of professional tailor Nadia – who knows much about measures and fit, and Vectorealism, my partners at Wefab – who gave me direct access to the lasercut to prepare the first drafts.

I wanted to present these drafts to the students so they could have an idea of what it meant to use felt with a lasercut and allow them to get inspired touching, wearing and exploring some real examples.

The workshop didn’t require any knowledge in fashion design or sewing, and when you don’t know anything about a topic is pretty hard to be creative especially when you have, at the same time, to deal with leds, sensors and programming.

That’s why I thought it would be useful to start from some Open Design, to “copy” from a series of ready-made that could be easily adapted to the different necessities of a wearable interaction and, in a way, adapt their shape to it.

I explained the students that at the end of the week those prototypes would have become a package and released with a Creative Commons License on Thingiverse and if they come up with any new idea, it could be added to the collection.

thingiverse openwear

And after days of designing, cutting and even sewing here’s the result: “Lasercut Wearable Prototype Collection – Felt Edition” is now available on Thingiverse and you can download it and prod/use it yourself!

Lasercut Wearable Prototypes Collection - Felt Edition

I’m sure that there are many other accessories that could be added to this initial collection, so if you want to collaborate you can create derivatives directly on Thingiverse, join our OpenwearShare flickr group or contact me directly on twitter ( @openwear_cc ) in case you want to add some new items.

A special mention goes to Thomas Amberg who created a cool project to help a friend and used the Modular Belt as a base for it. You can read the documentation of his project here: balanceshirt.tumblr.com.
And a second mention goes to the team of students who worked at the FrogBike Back and accepted to release it within the collection!

The future of knitting

flyknit

(Segue in italiano)

When a couple of years ago I got interested in the development of the first open-source loom and interviewed Margarita Benitez of Osloom I suddenly realized the potentiality of weaving, knitting and crocheting in terms of modularity and flexibility.

Now i’d like to present you two other projects that got my attention. They are not open-source, they are proprietary projects, but they show us how companies are researching and investing in new patented technologies that are revolutionizing the field.

Start with watching these videos. the first is a glance on the Nike’s Flyknit technology and the second is a short interview with the designers who developed it. They show us the first example of the knitting of one piece of trainer uppers using flat and circular knitting technologies. The shoe weights only 160 grams and has multiple yarns of varying properties!

Nike Flyknit technology film from Darrin Crescenzi on Vimeo.

If you want to know more technical information, read this article on knitting industry website and another interview with the developers (even if most of the answers start with the sentence: “We can’t share specifics”)

The second project is developed by Cem Yuksell at Cornell University and is about a new modeling technique that builds yarn-level models of complex knitted garments for virtual characters.
As you can read in the complete research paper in PDF:

“the tool provides the user precise control over the placement and the shape of each individual stitch with immediate feedback, and the final model is produced by a physically based simulation that relaxes local yarn shape, while preserving the global shape of the cloth model to ensure predictable results.”

knitting dress

In this 6-minutes video the concept is clearly explained and the amazing part starts at minute 2’30” during the relaxation phase, when mathematical model adapts to the shape of the body!

If you are interested in the future of fashion and manufacturing, these projects are a good starting point! We’ll do our best to keep you updated.

*************

flyknit

Quando un paio di anni fa mi sono interessata allo sviluppo del primo telaio open-source intervistando Margarita Benitez del progetto Osloom mi sono immediatamente resa conto delle potenzialità della tessitura, di maglia e uncinetto in termini di modularità e flessibilità.

Ora mi piacerebbe introdurvi a due progetti che da poco tempo hanno attirato la mia attenzione. Non sono progetti open-source, uno è proprietario, l’altro è un progetto di ricerca di un’università statunitense ma ci mostrano quanto sia alto l’interesse delle aziende sulla ricerca e gli investimenti di tecnologie brevettabii che stanno rivoluzionando questo campo.

Iniziate a dare un’occhiata a questi due video. Il primo mostra la tecnologia Nike’s Flyknit e il secondo una breve intervista ai designer che l’hanno sviluppata. Ci mostrano il primo esempio di scarpa sportiva prodotta con tecnologie di lavoro a maglia piano e circolare che vanno a comporre un il pezzo unico della parte superiore della scarpa. Quest’ultima pesa solo 160 grammi ed è composta vari fili con proprietà diverse (più o meno elastiche).

Nike Flyknit technology film from Darrin Crescenzi on Vimeo.

Per approfondire il lato tecnico potete leggere l’articolo pubblicato sul sito di “knitting industry” eun’altra intervista con gli sviluppatori (anche se quasi tutte le risposte cominciano con: “non possiamo condividere le specifiche…”)

Il secondo progetto è stato sviluppato da Cem Yuksell all’interno della Cornell University e tratta un softwear di modellazione tecnica per progettare capi lavorati a maglia per modelli virtuali con una precisione che raggiunge il livello del singolo punto. Come si legge nel paper di ricerca in PDF:

” lo strum ento fornisce controllo preciso sul posizionamento e la forma di ogni singolo punto, con feedback immediato e il modello finale è prodotto da una simulazione fisica che rilassa la forma dell’intreccio, mantenendo la forma globale del modello e assicurare così risultati prevedibili”

knitting dress

In questo video da 6 minuti, il concetto è spiegato molto chiaramente e il momento più interessante scatta al minuto 2’30” quando il modello matematico si adatta alla forma del corpo!

Se siete interessati nel futuro della moda e della sua manifattura, questi progetti sono un ottimo punto di partenza. Faremo il possibile per tenervi aggiornati!

From chain production to chain reaction with open design

fad open design

At the beginning of July I’m going to Barcelona invited at the Open Design Shared Creativity forum (check promotional code below!) to talk about open-source branding and collaborative clothing :

“An international forum that seeks to explore and debate the emerging landscape of openness and exchange that is taking shape around practices such as open code, creative commons licensing, co-creation, de-localisation and collaboration.

Digital technology and social networks have reached a point of maturity from which a new industrial culture is emerging, revolutionising the processes of creation, mediation, distribution and consumption. Taking design in all its expressions and forms as a starting point, the conference will be an important international forum of ideas, working platforms and specialised practices that are transforming the articulation of design with society, economy and culture.

Designers, architects, artists, editors, web activists, programmers, curators, lawyers and cultural analysts will explore over two days the reality and the potential of open design culture, from new business models to the most experimental creative practices.”

Here you can check the complete program of two days and if you are an international visitor interested to attend you can use this special openwear code for the ticket – PROMOTIONAL CODE: X345P !